By Daniella De Windt
Latin America, here we come! Two inexperienced 23-year-olds, my friend Sofie and I set off on a great backpacking adventure through Costa Rica, Colombia and Panama, to celebrate the completion of our Bachelor degrees. After many months of planning, receiving tips from knowledgeable travellers, discussing which bikinis to bring, and persuading our protective family members, it was finally time to embark on our three-month trip in September 2019.
I will be sharing our adventures and recommendations over the following weeks in The Weekender.
Bogota
After a short flight from San José, we arrived in Bogota – the capital and largest city of Colombia. We checked into the Selina Hostel, housed in a beautiful restored neo-colonial building in the historic quarter La Candelaria. We immediately noticed the different climate as we had to bundle up under our duvets due to the crisp temperatures.
The hostel offered a well-rated bike tour to explore the city for only $14, so we put our biking skills to the test on the first day as we cruised through the city’s many parks, past historic buildings, and tasted local fruit at a large indoor market. We even stopped for a game of tejo – a traditional Colombian game which consists of throwing a clay disc unto a target point with gunpowder – and had a tour and a café at a local coffee factory.
Another popular tour is the free graffiti tour – a great way to learn more about Bogota’s history and culture through the city’s colourful street art. The tour leaves the Chorro de Quevedo Square every day at 10:00am and 2:00pm. Just look for the yellow umbrella and don’t forget to tip your guide!
For food, San Felipe is highly recommended – we loved it so much that we visited the restaurant twice in those few days for their delicious local and cheap food. And don’t miss the obleas sold by street vendors: crispy wafer cookies filled with sweet dulce de leche and slightly salty white cheese.
Of course, this travel stop would not be complete without experiencing some nightlife. So we decided to get on a party bus to the legendary Andrés Carne de Res – a steakhouse-meets-nightclub located 23 km north of Bogota in Chía. After dinner, the tables are pushed aside, the children are sent home, the crazy costumes come out and the booze and the rumba start flowing.
Tatacoa Desert
After bustling Bogota, it was time for a change of environment – we headed towards the Tatacoa Desert. Our hostel, Hostal Backpackers and Travelers, offered a wonderful, guided desert tour for a great price. And since getting lost in a vast desert seemed to be one of those things people warn you about while backpacking, we were happy to join guide Tito and 10 other adventurers.
The tour started with a three-hour-long trek through the vast grey desert, after which we all sat down for a well-deserved lunch and fresh mango juice made by a local family. Afterwards, we were taken to a pool in the middle of the desert, after which we set out on a sunset hike through the beautiful red landscape, otherwise known as the Cusco Labyrinth, as the full moon came up. We ended the long but fulfilling day with a cold beer and hot arepa, while looking up at the endless starry sky.
Salento
The next stop on our grand backpacking adventure was Salento, a colourful small town in Colombia’s Coffee Triangle, mostly known for its proximity to the Instagrammable wax palm trees of the Cocora Valley. We stayed at the beautiful Coffee Tree Boutique Hostel, where guests enjoy the absolute best chocolate chip pancakes and delicious coffee while overlooking the foggy mountains – all included in the reasonable nightly rate.
Of course, we had to go see the famous palm tree valley for ourselves. So we hopped into a very crowded jeep and started the four-hour hike. We decided to do it counter-clockwise. This is said to be the most intense but also the most beautiful option, as it saves the best for last and ends in the impressive valley. It was a tough and sometimes very steep climb, but 100% worth it. We passed beautiful trails, waterfalls, hanging bridges, jungles, flowers, and hundreds of wax palm trees – perfect for the ’gram.
However, the highlight for me was definitely horseback riding with Cabalgatas San Pablo. We did the Rio tour – three hours of trotting and even galloping though coffee plantations, rivers, and hills. The horses are well taken care of, the guide Oscar is a true Colombian cowboy, and the ride itself is just spectacular! Even the two non-experienced backpackers, whom I low-key forced to join me, absolutely loved it.
To be continued…
