By Daniella De Windt
Latin America, here we come! Two inexperienced 23-year-olds, my friend Sofie and I set off on a great backpacking adventure through Costa Rica, Colombia and Panama, to celebrate the completion of our Bachelor degrees. After many months of planning, receiving tips from knowledgeable travellers, discussing which bikinis to bring, and persuading our protective family members, it was finally time to embark on our three-month trip in September 2019.
I will be sharing our adventures and recommendations over the following weeks in The Weekender.
Guatapé
The next stop on our great backpacking adventure was Guatapé. Only a few hours from Medellin, this town is well known for its vivid facades as the most colourful town in Colombia – think of all those great picture opportunities!
But this town is not just great for the ’gram; travellers also flock here to climb the legendary Piedra del Penol. At 7,005 feet, this giant rock remnant provides those who venture all the way up the 740-step staircase with a breath-taking 360-degree view of the surrounding landscapes. And if you time it correctly, you can reward your sporty endeavour with a cold michelada while watching the sunset from the summit.
With all that exercise, you deserve some good food. Okay, who am I kidding? You always deserve good food. We loved having Indian curry while enjoying spectacular lake views at Donde Sam Kushbu. For dessert – or any other meal really – Zocarolls is highly recommended. Their fresh and soft cinnamon rolls topped with dulce de leche, frosting, and almonds – honestly the best I have ever had.
Santa Fé de Antioquia
It was time to switch it up after colourful and active Guatapé. We took the bus to Santa Fé de Antioquia – a charming colonial town known for its whitewashed houses, cobbled streets and charming courtyards lined with bougainvillea. Founded in 1541, Santa Fé is one of the oldest Colonial cities in Latin America and one of the best-persevered pueblos in Colombia. It was originally the capital of Antioquia before government moved to Medellin in 1826, after which it seemed like time stood still.
The pueblo still feels authentic. Most tourists are Colombians who come to escape the hustle and bustle of city life to enjoy the laid-back town and the tropical temperatures. There is not a whole lot to do, but that is the charm of the place. People are encouraged to take a step back and relax while enjoying beautiful decaying Spanish architecture and churches.
But our favourite part was undoubtedly Hostel Casa de Verano Santa Fe – probably the cutest hostel we stayed in. The beautiful rooms, yummy cocktails, delightful breakfast, pretty pool, relaxing hammocks, and loving owners/dogs truly made us feel like backpacking princesses.
Medellin
After three days of ultimate relaxation, we felt we were ready to take on bustling Medellin – the city everyone raves about for its great food, nightlife and activities. And they were right – we loved this city so much we extended our flights.
Still in princess mode, we booked a luxurious Airbnb with a rooftop pool, but most importantly, comfy beds and no snoring hostel roommates! From there, we walked around the popular expat neighbourhood El Poblado and enjoyed some chic window shopping and comforting empanadas.
Medellin is known for its great activities. We especially loved the Comuna 13 tour – a popular tour that takes you through what was considered the most dangerous area in the former most dangerous city in the world. Over the past eight years, Comuna 13 has undergone a huge transformation as gang violence, cartels, and raids made place for street art performances, colourful graffiti and tourism.
Another highlight is the city’s famous cable car system that decriminalized the city by connecting formerly hard-to-reach areas. The cable cars are similar to ski lifts and provide commuters with wonderful views as they bring you over the rooftops that sprawl up the mountains surrounding Medellin.
Medellin is a foodie and nightlife heaven. In addition to all the local snacks, the modern metropolitan offers a variety of restaurants and bars. We enjoyed Sumo Ramen so much we ate their cheap and hearty ramen twice in four days. With Medellin’s bustling nightlife scene, brunch might be the most important meal of the day. Al Alma’s hangover-curing omelettes, bagels, fruit bowls, and pastries surely will hit the spot. For a unique dining experience, find the unmarked stairway entrance to Alambique – a quirky rooftop restaurant with great ambiance, delicious cocktails, and inventive kitchen.
There are so many bars and clubs that we had a hard time deciding where to order our beloved rum cokes. But one thing is certain: you cannot miss out on La Octava and its famous ball pit, strong drinks, and great vibes.
El Rio Hostel
After a short flight to Santa Marta, a bumpy bus journey, and an even bumpier moto taxi ride, we finally made it to the much-anticipated El Rio Hostel. Sofie and I were really looking forward to three days of chilling and socialising at the riverside accommodation. The hostel was opened by two English travellers who clearly know their stuff. With a private river beach, sundeck, beer garden, family-style dining, hammock area, it is no wonder that the backpackers’ haven was voted best hostel in Colombia and second best hostel in Latin America.
There is no Wi-Fi as travellers are encouraged to disconnect and reconnect, but no one seemed to mind. Daily yoga, relaxing swims, fun (drinking) games, the best hammock naps of my life, and strong cocktails kept boredom at bay – not to mention the daily “boozy” tubing trips: three hours of river cruising, swimming, rock-jumping, and Tarzan swings, all accompanied by beer-filled cool boxes.
To be continued …
